Monthly Extra

There is an excitement about the celebration of a new year.  With it come the fantasies of new opportunities and revitalization, not to mention the anticipated diet and exercise regime.  Celebrations most often are with good friends at restaurants, hotels and parties at the home of friends.  If you are leaving the arrangements of a party to others, you may not be concerned about the serving of caviar and champagne that are associated with the "going all out" for the New Year's celebration.  But, in case you are hosting your friends, you may want to consider the vagaries of the caviar market and where to make a purchase.  With the current prices, you may want to serve a caviar dip or use a dollop on an appetizer of less expensive caviar for symbolic luxury.  However, champagne is a ritualistic part of the usual festivities, and you may be interested in the brands that will make a wise or impressive choice for your party.

Caviar

Caviar has become a symbol throughout the world of success and luxury, and sometimes of snobbery and high society. The ritual surrounding the consumption of caviar only helps add to its image and flair: the ornate silver serving dishes with their inner glass bowls and outer ice compartments, the delicate mother-of-pearl spoons, the variety of accompaniments that are served alongside, the awkward dance performed by guests offered the treat, knowing it is impolite to help one’s self to more than a teaspoonful or two.

The first people known to have eaten caviar were the Persians living in what is now Azerbaijian on the Caspian Sea. The delicacy was soon exported, and, as powers rose and fell in the world, so too did those that were able to afford and consume the fine dish. The economic value and power of caviar continued well through the Roman Empire's reign.  Czars of Russia were noted for its conspicuous consumption during the glory days of their power, especially after Russia took control of the area in which the Persians first discovered the treat.  The three main types, from highest price and quality to lowest are beluga, osetra and sevruga.

Overfishing of the sturgeon-producing caviar has led to the sharp price spikes of the premium caviar.  With the disintegration of the USSR, the countries surrounding the Caspian Sea have brutally overfished the export luxury, and, coupled with pollution and poor management, the sturgeon is nearly extinct.  Any Russian beluga on the market today (at breath-taking prices) has arrived on our shores via poachers and the black market.  The United States has banned its import since 2005.

Right now, America produces nearly 75% of the world's caviar, mostly farm-raised, though it is to be noted that the labeling restrictions in the United States aren't nearly as strict as in places such as France, where only the Roe of Sturgeon can be labeled as Caviar.  Other types of caviar include the Pacific Coast Sturgeon (similar to osetra), Paddlefish (a grey roe), Whitefish (American Golden) Salmon (red) and Lumpfish (tiny black).  White Sturgeon, indigenous to the Pacific coast, is now farm-raised and producing good quality caviar.  Seattle Caviar Company is a good supplier of that area's caviar.

There are several large importers, who sell the sevruga and osetra Russian caviar.  The very patrician Petrossian, in its New York boutique, sells Russian caviar including farm-raised Siberian sturgeon, now a popular source for the better caviar importers.  Other direst importers include New York's Caviarteria, Zabar's and Caviar Russe, the last conveniently next door to the iconic Sherry-Lehmann Wine & Spirits on Park Avenue.  It is worth checking their prices if you are buying a large quantity since specials abound at this time of the year.  Marky's in Florida is another well-recommended purveyor of good caviars.

Locally, caviar can be purchased at several markets including Central Market, which carries some caviar from Petrossian and Caviar Russe, expects expanded inventory for the week from Christmas to New Year's Eve.

TJ's Seafood is carrying both wild and farm-raised osetra and a sevruga-like American Hackleback, both from the West Coast. To secure the quantity wanted and the freshness, it is best to order the caviar in advance.

Pogo's Wine & Spirits also makes the purchase of caviar easy while purchasing holiday champagne.  In addition to the above-mentioned Petrossian caviar from Siberia, Pogo's carries the West Coast farm-raised caviar.

Caviar is extremely perishable and the sooner it is consumed the better.  Plan on about an ounce per person for an appetizer.  We love it served with blini or toast points, accompanied by some sour cream. Too many accompaniments can alter the flavor of good caviar.  Incidentally, our favorite blini recipe comes from a book written in the early 80's by Darra Goldstein whose books combine her expertise in Russian literature and its references to food. The award-winning A la Russe: a Cookbook of Russian Hospitality is still available and cherished for its blini recipe, not to mention recipes for other Russian classics.

Two traditional beverages served with caviar: champagne and Russian vodka.  Considering the occasion, champagne and New Year's go hand in hand, even without the caviar.

Champagne

Champagne is a drink for which we owe thanks to the French monks, who accidentally produced bubbles in wine by their fermentation.  As the cellar master at the Abby of Hautvillers, the Benedictine monk Dom Pérignon laid down the basic principles still used in making champagne today.  To help prevent the popping corks and exploding bottle problem, he began to use the stronger bottles developed by the English and closing them with Spanish cork instead of the wood and oil-soaked hemp stoppers then in use.  The sparkling version of champagne continued to grow in popularity, especially among the haut-bourgeoisie and the French nobility.

Advances by the house of Veuve Clicquot in the development of the méthode champenoise made the production of sparkling wine on a large scale profitable, and this period saw the founding in the 19th century of many of today's famous Champagne houses, including Bollinger, Krug and Pommery.  The fortunes of the Champenois and the popularity of champagne grew until a series of setbacks in the early 20th century.  Phylloxera appeared, vineyard growers rioted in 1910-11, the Russian and American markets were lost because of the Russian Revolution and Prohibition, and two World Wars made the vineyards of Champagne a battlefield.

The modern era, however, has seen a resurgence of the popularity of champagne, a wine associated with both luxury and celebration. Today the region produces over 200 million bottles of champagne annually with worldwide demand accelerating.

Top of the list in premium champagnes, are Krug, Dom Pérignon and Roederer, whose the top of the line Cristal is the champagne popularized by Russian royalty.  The sophisticated but smaller house of Salon is also a favorite among real connoisseurs.  Other leading houses include Taittinger, Laurent-Perrier, Billecart-Salmon, Henriot and Perrier-Jouet, to name only a few.  All the champagnes have a variety of styles in vintage and non-vintage, which accounts for a wide range of prices, especially among the larger houses.

Only sparkling wine from the region of Champagne can use the name "champagne,"  but among the more affordable "sparkling wines" are several good values.  In comparing the top lists by the Wine Spectator and a few of the other wine publications, there are high ratings for the French offshoots in California, such as the NV Roederer Estate Alexander Valley and Taittinger's Domaine Carnaros.  Prices for these sparkling wines range from about $20 to $25 and offer quality backed by generations of experience with the méthode champenoise.

There are always "specials" on champagne at this season of competitive buying.  Central Market has had impressive specials on top-rated champagnes Bollinger and Henriot.  Other brands will likely have mark-downs on their large inventory as we get closer to Christmas and New Year's Eve.

Sigel’s has published its holiday specials on a number of top champagnes, including Krug's Grande Cuvée and Roederer Brut Premier.

Pogo's Wine & Spirits has a depth of high-scoring champagnes in vintage years, which is of interest to connoisseurs.  Fastest-selling seems to be the Dom Pérignon 2002 Andy Warhol limited edition, a series of three bottles.  Also of interest are less-known and highly touted champagnes from small growers, such as the "cult status" Vilmart & Cie "Grand Cellier" Premium Cru and the modestly priced José Dhonat.

eatZi's makes a last-minute holiday party effortless with the meal and a pleasing choice of champagnes to go.  Their bubbly labels include an interesting 2003 Bollinger, Nicolas Feuillatte, Perrier-Jouet and well-selected California sparkling wines.

Considering the wealth of choices, the right champagne will be available for your party, whether a tête de cuvée or a commendable sparkling wine at a lesser price.  Enjoy!

Reminders

There may be those of our readers who will be entertaining and we make the same suggestion to search our Sources for your needs of flowers, food, take-out, sweets, servers and all the components. Likely all the caterers, parkers and event specialists have been booked for same time.  Judging from the barrage of emails from top restaurants, there are plenty of reservations, fabulous menus and promises of a memorable evening still available.

Santa has yet to arrive and the last minute frenzy is still on-going.  To add some excitement for families, find the time to visit Dallas' visual delights, such as the tree at the Galleria ice rink, the fabulous lights around town and the futuristic windows at Neiman Marcus Downtown.

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